All Day Singing and Dinner (goat) on the Grounds

Today was Sunday, church day at Kukhany O’ Kusha. We arrived at the church at 10:00, but things didn’t really get started until about 11:30. As Make Janice often reminds us, the Swazi culture is much more event related than time related. The craftier ones of us (as in Martha Stewart) made bracelets and beads with the children. The children’s activities were held in the church yard and we sat on wooden benches beading (well some beaded and others of us visited) and getting know the children. There were several familiar faces from two years ago and some I was even able to call by name. As is typical of this time of year, we enjoyed another beautiful African winter day. The rainy season is about to begin, so in late August the balmy winter weather will give way to the sultry summer and the rains will come. Unfortunately, the rainy season in most of Swaziland does not produce enough water to quench the ongoing drought and in some parts of the kingdom it has been nearly 7 years since a single drop of rain has fallen.

The beginning of church is a process, not an event in Swaziland. When we entered the sanctuary the spinning had already begun. The benches are moved back from the center of the area in front of the pulpit and the members, carrying sticks, walk in a circle, singing and chanting and praying. We removed our shoes, as do the Swazis while in church. Our women also had covered their heads as is customary when in church. The women in our group have worn skirts since arriving is Swaziland, another concession in an attempt to be sensitive to the local traditions. We men have had it much easier in that we have only had to wear long pants while here. We have avoided blue jeans, but otherwise, men have pretty much freedom to dress as they please. This is just one of many advantages we have had as men. Of course since one of my bags went missing, I had very few wardrobe choices anywy. Several of us were invited and participated in the spinning. I chose to observe, but was totally absorbed in the tribal harmonies. Though I didn’t understand the words that were being spoken and sung, I was acutely aware of the power of the moment.

The singing continued throughout the day with different choirs taking their turn singing. I am so glad that Chris brought a digital recorder and has captured so many of the sounds of Swaziland. The children’s voices lifted in song, the beautiful tribal harmonies of the choirs, the rich voice of Babe Mkhonta praying in a language foreign, but at the same time familiar and comforting; all these sounds I have carried in my heart since my last time here, and I will be grateful to have them on CD to reconnect to this enchanting land.

When it came our choir’s turn to sing, I was impressed. Chris had prepared us well. We were received so very graciously. Molly, one of our team members, did a wonderful job on a couple of solos and the Swazis absolutely loved her singing, as did we. We did an assortment of styles trying to be reflective of our varied culture. Several of the songs the Swazis knew and sang with us and some they learned as we went along. Amazing Grace greatly received and we also sang Down in the River to Pray, an Appalachian hymn.

I am overjoyed at the communication and connection of the music. During the entire church service, which lasted over 4 hours, no spoken word carried the impact or the connection as did the singing.

I never thought I had a bucket list, but after this voyage I may neeed to start one. There have been so many things I never expected I would ever do in my lifetime that I have been thrust into along this journey. Preaching in a Zionist Church in Africa was not on my radar, but I think I pulled it off okay. The good thing about being translated is while the translator speaks your words it gives you time to prepare your next phrases. Also you can speak for 20 minutes with 10 minutes worth of material. Sandile served as my translator and just his presence gave me support and confidence. Also Janice spoke to the congregation. She has a passion for the plight of the Swazis and her work in HIV/AIDS is to be admired.

After church we were treated to a meal and, of course, the main course was the goat that had been slaughtered in our honor. The goat had been sliced, marinated and cooked on a grate over an open fire and I must admit was quite tasty. We were also served pap and vegetables. I again, was so impressed by the honor shown us.

As this day, our last in Swaziland, came to a close and we packed up our vans and left Kukhany O kusha Zoinist Church for the last time, we were all aware of the fact that we had been witness to something very special.

Good-byes were difficult and will be so tomorrow when we leave those friends who have been by our side since we arrived here, but I will save that story for another day
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