We touched down in Johannesburg just as the sun set on Friday July 25, 2008, some 20 hours behind schedule. Of course the relief of finally being on African soil was mitigated by the uncertainty of what and who we may find at the gate. E-mails we had sent from airports along the way had remained unanswered, so we had no idea if the rest of our team had indeed arrived earlier that morning as planned and if they had, were they aware of our latest plans. As we were waiting in the immigration lines we heard a cheer from the other side. It was indeed a relief and pleasure to see the remainder of our team intact, appearing well and in good spirits. After getting the luggage, or at least the majority of it (2 still in Amsterdam and one off to parts unknown) we left the baggage claim area and as we cleared the last of the security areas there stood Babe Mhlanga, Sandile, and Vuyo whom trusted us with a piece of his heart on our last departure, and dear Babe Mkhonta, a man with a soul like none I have ever know. Hugs, shouts and jokes abounded as we made our way through greeting and receiving each one. As Babe Mkohnta approached me he opened his arms and received me in the biggest hug you could ever imagine. “Babe John Johnson, I had hoped we would meet at least one more time this side of heaven.” He said, eyes brimming with tears. I have reflected on what that may have looked like, two men of such large stature, similar in age, one ebony and one pale and travel worn (that would be me) rocking back and forth locked in embrace, laughing and both holding back tears. But as looked around the scene was repeating itself throughout our group.
After such a glorious reunion, there could be nothing that could go wrong at this point. Or so you would have thought. At the rental car counter travel Karma decided to deliver another of her now familiar blows. Since we were a day late, even though we had called and been assured there would be no problem, they had given our Kombis (vans) away. The best accommodation they could offer was 3 sedans and a pickup with a canopy for all of the luggage. That presented another problem, we had only 3 African drivers for 4 vehicles, so it was decided this was our only alternative. I would be the fourth driver. This was not what I had in mind, but it seemed to be the only viable option. So after 2 hours of red tape and paper signing, off we went. By this time it was past 9:00 PM and we had not eaten and really didn’t have a plan since we were so behind schedule. We decided to drive to a restaurant near the airport and eat and meet.
In reflection I am still amazed that I was able to drive in Johannesburg, the biggest city in Africa, on the left hand side off the road, in a 5 speed standard Toyota Corolla, on the right hand side of the car , shifting with my left hand. But I did.
By the time we ate and talked things over with our hosts it was past 11:00. We had been invited to attend Babe Gideon’s sons wedding which was to start at 10:00 the following morning. This was the same son who’s church wedding we had attended 2 years ago. This was his traditional wedding steeped in Zulu tradition. We came to know the traditional wedding takes place a number of years after the church wedding. It was to last for 2 days with lots of singing, dancing, cow slaughtering and feasting. We decided as a group that we would not miss the wedding, no matter what. The border at Swaziland would not open til 7:00 AM and we were some 4 hours away. So we decided to drive for a few hours and then get some rooms, rest for a couple of hours, shower and try to be at the border when it opened at 7:00 and then on to the wedding.
At 2:00 AM on what was now Saturday morning we stopped at a Formula One Motel. It advertised 1 – 3 people per room for 210 Rand (about $23.00). Some things are universal, and you get what you pay for certainly holds true in South Africa. The 3 guys shared a room which made Microtel look like the Hyatt Regency. The bathroom was like those on a cruise ship, only smaller. The commode and shower stall were in one small room. The sink was in the bedroom and we had 2 towels for 3 people. Jay, one of the guys was going to call the front desk and ask for another towel except we had no phone from which to call. A trip to the front desk was in order, for surely it was an oversight to provide only 2 towels. The young man firmly assured Jay it was indeed company policy to only provide 2 towels per room. When Jay suggested he get a towel from a vacant room, the clerk was most obliging… if we wanted to pay for another room. Again, we adapted, a strategy we were getting good at.
We all 3 showered with an hour to spare, so we took a power nap and at 5:00 were on the road to the border. After all we had a wedding to get to.
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